Savage 220A locking bolt issue

[squirrel]

Got Savage 220A .410 very difficult to open from passed family member stored in closet for decades. Gun marked Chicopee Falls, Mass April, 1954 with matching inspector marks.

I removed buttstock, forend and barrel and brushed/soaked receiver and firing mechanism with CLP. The locking bolt is uncentered touching left side of receiver. When Moved with thumb it frees up and will  move with top snap. But when top snap is released the locking bolt hangs up again.

I removed locking bolt. Width measures .607 at bottom, .610 where pin goes through. Length measures 1.570 from top where it engages top snap to bottom. Depth measures .418 from front flat to rear. Pin through locking block and receiver is tight.

I put the locking bolt back in and it centered in receiver and moved with top snap. But when top snap released the locking bolt arm disengages from the snap arm. I can move it forward to reengage but when release top snap it disengages again.

Could the locking bolt arm be too short?  Could it be the top snap arm? I stopped disassembly at removing locking bolt. So I didn't inspect top snap arm.

[Garnett]

I just compared 11 locking blocks in my parts inventory.  The longest was 1.594.  the shortest 1.569.  Yours falls in between those two.  I wonder if the top snap arm could also be worn?  In measuring the locking blocks, I noticed something I had over looked in previous research.  Of these 11 examples, the hole in the rear of them for the spring is significantly "off center"  to the left on four of them.  The hole is centered on the 5th example to the far right.  Could this be part of the problem?   Also pictured is a top snap arm.




Could one part be worn enough to cause the problem or could wear on both parts combined cause your problem?  I feel a competent gun smith/machinist could repair this.  Just buying and installing new parts is a hit and miss effort.  I say again, that Savage cautioned purchasers of parts that they would not necessarily fit and may need to be fitted by a competent gun smith.  I hope this has helped some.  Best wishes, and Happy New Year!

Click on pictures to enlarge.

[squirrel]

I replaced locking bolt and top snap arm with parts from Numrich Gun Parts Corporation. after replacement the top snap has good spring tension, the locking bolt stays engaged with the top snap arm but the gun is now even harder to open.

Does anyone have a suggestion for gunsmith in southeast central WI or northeast central IL?

[Garnett]

You can try taking just a little metal off the bottom of the barrel lug.  A reader of my book shared this information with me and my gunsmith tried it on one of my guns that was very difficult to open.  It is MUCH easier to open now.  Just remove a little at a time and try.  If you remove too much, the barrel will be loose.  I hope this helps.  Please let us know.  Click on picture to enlarge.

[Woods Wanderer]

When I first got my 220 12 gauge it was an absolute bear to open!
Had to push the lever all the to the right VERY HARD and slam it on my thigh to open it.
If you look for the posting "M220 hard to open" further down on this list of 220 postings you will find the tips I used to fix my issues.
My 220 opens very easily now and all it took was a few minutes with a fine file and some wet/dry sandpaper.