HELP: Ejector re-assembly, 1st generation -219- Utica gun

[Sentry44]

Hi Gents,

I haven't don't this before, so maybe I'm missing something obvious.

Per Garnett's book, I am re-assembling the entire lug ejector section, as some parts were missing when I acquired this Hornet barrel.

Here's what I did:

1.  Put ejector hook in place, then pin.
2.  Slide in spring, then stop pin, then ejector.
3.  Compress, then pin in place.

This LOOKS right, with the ejector sticking out about the 1/8 or so that you would expect.  Looks just liike the other 4 barrels I have.  But when you try to fit it to the frame, it will not compress all the way into the little recess in the barrel, so the gun will shut. 

I tried compressing it in a vise, but it's very obviously reaching a stopping point before reaching the recess.

1.  Did I make a mistake?
2.  If it sounds like my assembly was correct, have anyone noted variances spring or extractor hook dimensions, such that maybe these parts aren't correct?

Thanks for help.

Chris

[Garnett]

Chris, I am not a gun smith and perhaps someone else can give you the information you need.  However, there are two things I will mention....Savage Arms says that their parts will not necessarily interchange even with the same model.  They may have to be fitted by a gunsmith.  My second thought is that as I understand it, your ejector was missing and you installed a replacement.  Am I correct?  I just took a picture of the 6 ejectors in my spare parts box.  Notice the 3 on the left are significantly shorter than the 3 on the right.  My thinking is that you have a long ejector installed and need a short one.  Also notice very minor differences in each one, from short to long.  I hope this will help some.  Best wishes, Garnett

[Sentry44]

Thanks Garnett.  Seeing that pic my guess is that's the problem.  I think the easiest (and cheapest) solution is just to shorten the spring.  If I mess it up I have a spare, and Numriich has a zillion of them.  Whereas trying to file the correct ejector hook profile, or spend the time and money finding the correct hook, seems daunting.

I'll give it a whirl today and report back how it's going.

The ease of working on these guns and the availability of parts is part of why I love them.  No need for a gunsmith...just give it a go!

Chris

[Garnett]

Good luck, and please let us know how it comes out.

[Sentry44]

Ok, so that worked.  Put lug in bench vise and compressed until I could see how far out the ejector was stopping beyond the breech recess, then removed the spring and snipped with wire snips.  Took two tries to get it right, then tapped the ejector pin into place using the vise to compress.

Fit barrel to frame to check for lockup.  When I open it flings the snap cap 20 feet across my shop.  Clearly removing 1/3 of an inch from the spring did nothing to affect its 'lethal' ejection.  Somebody behind you will still lose an eye if u dont catch the cartidge case with your hand.   

Chris

[Garnett]

Chris, Thanks for this additional information.  Man has triumphed over machine!

[Mike Armstrong]

You gptta watch those ejectors--a loaded .410 shell will break glass at close range!  (DON'T ask me how I know this....).

Mike Armstrong

[Sentry44]

Mike,

Yeah, these 219/220's have the strongest ejectors of any guns I own.  You almost have to wonder why they felt the need to make em that strong.  I own some old doubles that just fling shells maybe 3 feet or so...really just enough to get em out for you so you can reload.  But this thing...I have to be careful at the range because you could actually seriously hurt someone walking behind you.   

[Garnett]

I just finished building a 219 Hornet for my daughter.  I had the auto ejector removed because of this.  It is fully functional and can be reinstalled at any time.